First, replace the queen bee. An old or weak queen lays fewer eggs and has a higher chance of dying during winter. The peak egg-laying period in spring is short, so it's essential to raise a new, high-quality queen in the fall. When replacing the queen, the old one can be used to create a "double queen" situation, allowing her to continue laying eggs until she's removed. This method helps maintain productivity during the transition.
Second, breed age-appropriate winter bees. Bees that emerge from the white dew season (also known as the "White Dew" period) are best suited for winter survival. These bees have longer lifespans and better cold tolerance, making them ideal for the winter months.
Third, feed the bees with proper overwintering food. This should begin after the last honey harvest. The sugar-to-water ratio should ideally be 1:0.6. It's important to feed them within a short window—usually 2-3 days—to ensure they have enough energy reserves.
Fourth, prevent robbing behavior. As the late autumn nectar sources dry up, bees may start stealing from other hives. To avoid this, release the bees from their hive and place an empty box nearby to collect the older foragers. If the problem is severe, move the affected colony to a different apiary. Make sure no honey or water leaks out of the hive to prevent attracting robbers.
Fifth, perform active hive management. This is typically done in two stages. The first is before the winter bees are developed, and the second occurs during the natural swarming period. Always feed the bees before administering any treatments to ensure they're strong and healthy.
Sixth, break the brood early. After the winter bees have been raised, it's time to break the brood cycle. Increase the hive space by 15-20 mm, remove pollen stores, reduce insulation, and use honey to fill up the hive. This encourages the queen to lay eggs earlier, promoting faster colony development and unity. You can also close the queen’s access to certain areas to help her stop laying eggs when necessary.
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