First, consider the quality of the fruit before bagging. For instance, apple trees located in valleys or plateaus that are not properly watered often produce weak, low-quality fruits. These fruits tend to be small, irregular in shape, yellow in color, and prone to sugar return. Their flesh is hard, astringent, and lacks flavor, which fails to meet the desired quality standards. In such cases, it's important to evaluate whether bagging is necessary or beneficial.
Second, using low-quality bags without proper national certifications—such as inferior paper or plastic film bags—can lead to poor results. These materials often lack good air and moisture permeability, have unstable temperature and humidity control, and may degrade quickly. Plastic bags may not be UV-resistant, while paper bags can tear during storms. In many cases, these substandard bags can even worsen the condition of the fruit compared to leaving it unbagged. Therefore, it's best to avoid them altogether.
Third, during the early stages of fruit development, sunburn can occur due to high temperatures, poor ventilation, or improper bag selection. The peak period for sunburn typically occurs 2–5 days after bagging. Early bagging increases the risk of damage. However, watering the orchard before bagging and using high-quality bags can significantly reduce the occurrence of sunburn.
Fourth, calcium deficiency and black spot disease are more common in densely planted orchards with excessive nitrogen fertilizer, leading to vigorous growth and poor fruit set. This environment promotes conditions like bitter pit, scab, and black spot diseases. To manage this, applying three sprays of effective calcium solutions and two applications of broad-spectrum antibiotics within 40 days after fruit formation is crucial.
Fifth, fruit rot inside the bag is often caused by the failure to apply specific fungicides, such as thiophanate-methyl, before bagging. The later the bagging, the higher the risk of rot. It’s essential to spray the appropriate fungicides before sealing the fruit in bags and to complete the process as soon as possible.
Sixth, pests entering the bags usually result from inadequate insecticide application beforehand. Common intruders include the mealworm, scale insects, aphids, and leaf rollers. The most effective prevention involves spraying bio-insecticides and diflubenzuron before bagging, along with ensuring the bags are tightly sealed.
Seventh, rough or uneven peels often occur when the outer paper bag becomes damaged after rain or when the bag remains wet for too long, causing poor air circulation. This leads to excessive humidity inside the bag, which negatively affects the fruit. To prevent this, ensure the bag is tightly sealed, and consider cutting the lower corners slightly during rainy periods to improve drainage.
Eighth, in dry weather, fruits in the bag may not shrink if the tree is healthy and well-watered. However, weak trees or those in dry areas may experience fruit shrinkage due to the lack of moisture. Thick paper bags that retain water and do not allow proper drying can also cause this issue. Avoid using dark-colored plastic bags or double-layer non-calendered paper bags, especially in hot climates.
Ninth, poorly ventilated orchards with dense planting and excessive nitrogen can lead to poor light penetration. Using low-quality paper bags or bagging too late can result in fruits that fail to develop proper color or greenness. Plastic bags with high air permeability but no UV protection may cause purple discoloration and yellow backgrounds, reducing fruit quality. Improving orchard ventilation, managing fertilization, and using high-quality bags promptly are key solutions.
Tenth, after bagging, fruits may become wilted during storage due to a thin wax layer on the peel. To prevent this, remove the paper bags about 15–20 days before harvest and sort the fruits immediately. For long-term storage, use fresh-keeping paper or plastic bags. If the fruit was originally in a plastic bag, it can be repackaged with a suitable storage bag before export.
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