The selection of high-quality parents and appropriate stocking density are crucial for improving the hatching rate of quail eggs. Quails that are over five years old, with a body weight of 1 to 1.5 kilograms, are typically chosen as breeding stock. These quails should be strong, non-injured, with shiny and smooth backs, and exhibit quick, active movements. It’s also important to check for internal injuries. One method is to turn the bird’s belly upside down. A healthy quail will quickly flip back and escape. If it cannot turn over, it likely has internal injuries. To test this, gently hold the sides of the hindquarters with two fingers. If the legs can’t be pressed in, it may indicate internal damage.
In terms of stocking density, it's generally recommended to keep quails in an area of 1 to 2 square meters per bird. The total weight per mu (approximately 667 square meters) should be around 250 kilograms. A male-to-female ratio of 4:1 or 3:1 is ideal. After stocking, proper management is essential, including feeding high-protein animal feed to promote gonad development and overall reproductive health.
Egg collection must be done carefully, as it directly affects hatching success. Key points include accurately locating the nesting sites. During the spawning season from May to August, inspect the laying areas early each morning before sunrise. Look for footprints and wet spots on the ground—these are signs of egg-laying holes. Avoid removing the eggs immediately, as the embryos are not yet fixed. Moving them too soon can disrupt development and lower the hatching rate. After 8 to 30 hours, the embryos are fully developed, and the eggs will appear white with clear yellow and white spots. At this point, they can be safely collected.
Fertilized eggs should be placed in specially designed egg boxes. These are wooden containers measuring 45 cm by 45 cm with an 8 cm depth. They have small filter holes on the sides and bottom, and are lined with 2 cm of fine sand. If egg boxes aren't available, a plastic container or bucket can be used instead. When collecting, use a bamboo stick to gently dig out the eggs. Check each egg for signs of fertilization: a clear, round white spot on the top and bright pink or white color indicates a good fertilized egg. If there’s no visible spot or if the spot is large and irregular, the egg is either unfertilized or poorly developed and should not be used for hatching.
When packing the eggs, place them with the pointed end up and arrange them neatly in the box without overcrowding. After collection, fill in the nest holes and compact the soil. During dry periods, spray some water to maintain moisture and encourage continued spawning.
Finally, controlling the hatching conditions is essential. There are various methods for artificial incubation, but all require careful attention to temperature, humidity, and ventilation. The ideal incubation temperature is between 28°C and 35°C, preferably around 30°C. Too high or too low temperatures can reduce the hatching rate. Humidity should be maintained at 80–85%. If it’s too high, the eggs may suffocate; if too low, they may dry out. A practical way to check humidity is by squeezing the sand in your hand—if it holds together but doesn’t drip, the humidity is just right. Proper ventilation is also critical to ensure the embryo gets enough oxygen. Temperature, humidity, and air circulation are interdependent factors that must be balanced to achieve the best possible hatching results.
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