1. Autumnal Branching: When results are not as expected, the main branch should continue to expand its growth and meet the required standards. Upright shoots should be softened by bending them horizontally, while auxiliary and lateral branches should be leveled to encourage balanced development.
2. Canopy Thinning: Removing dense, upright, overlapping, or competing branches helps improve light penetration and air circulation within the tree. This process also eliminates unnecessary shoots that may hinder overall tree health and fruit production.
3. Promoting Flower Bud Development: In mid to late September, it's recommended to prune the "live hat" at the junction of two-year-old and one-year-old growth. This technique encourages flower bud formation on two-year-old shoots. Varieties like Red Fuji, Golden Delicious, and Doraemon can benefit from this method, as well as trimming at the junction of spring and autumn growth. Strong, vigorous shoots should have a live cap removed, while weaker or less productive branches should have a dead cap applied. Generally, the main scaffold branches should not be topped unless necessary.
4. Controlling Winter Damage: Young trees, high-yielding varieties, and those with rapid new growth often struggle with winter dryness and poor structure. To manage this, techniques like branch pulling, rubbing, or topping can be used to control excessive growth. Topping should be done around mid-September, with the goal of preventing secondary branching. If the timing is early, just remove the growth point lightly. If done later, cut back the new shoot by 1–5 cm to maintain balance without overstimulating growth.
This pruning strategy not only supports healthy tree development but also enhances fruit quality and yield in the long run. By following these steps carefully, growers can ensure their trees remain strong, well-structured, and productive for years to come.
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