In the first place, it's important to consider the quality of the fruit when deciding whether to bag them. For instance, apple trees growing in valleys or plateaus that are not properly watered often produce weak, low-quality fruits. These fruits tend to be small, irregular in shape, yellow in color, and prone to losing sweetness quickly. They also have a hard, astringent texture and lack good flavor, which fails to meet the desired quality standards. In such cases, it's worth evaluating whether bagging is necessary or beneficial.
Secondly, using low-quality bags can do more harm than good. Inferior paper or plastic bags without proper national certification often lack durability, breathability, and moisture control. Plastic bags may not resist aging, while paper bags can tear easily during storms. As a result, these bags might actually worsen the condition of the fruit, making the bagging process ineffective. Therefore, it's best to avoid using such substandard materials.
Third, during the early stages of fruit development, sunburn can occur due to high temperatures, poor ventilation, or improper bag selection. Sunburn is most common 2-5 days after bagging, and the earlier the bagging, the more severe the damage tends to be. To reduce this risk, ensure the orchard is well-watered before bagging, and use high-quality bags designed for optimal protection.
Fourth, calcium deficiency and black spot disease are common issues in densely planted orchards with excessive nitrogen fertilizer. These conditions lead to poor tree vigor, low fruit retention, and dense canopies. Diseases like bitter pit, scab, and black spot are more likely to develop under these circumstances. A key solution is to spray effective calcium solutions three times and antibiotics twice within 40 days after the fruit has formed.
Fifth, fruit rot inside the bag is often caused by not applying the right fungicides before bagging. The later the bagging, the higher the chance of rot. It's crucial to apply special fungicides beforehand and bag as soon as possible to prevent this issue.
Sixth, pests entering the bags are usually due to insufficient insecticide application prior to bagging. Common pests include mealworms, scale insects, aphids, and leaf curlers. To prevent this, it's recommended to spray bio-insecticides and diflubenzuron before bagging, and make sure the bags are tightly sealed.
Seventh, rough skin on the fruit is often caused by damaged outer bags after rain or poor air circulation inside the bag. If the bag remains wet for too long, the humidity inside fluctuates too much, leading to an uneven texture. To solve this, ensure the bag is properly sealed and consider cutting the lower corners during rainy periods to improve drainage.
Eighth, if the fruit doesn't shrink inside the bag during dry weather, it could be due to weak trees or inadequate watering. Thick paper bags can trap heat, causing internal temperatures to exceed 50°C. If the fruit lacks moisture, it may shrivel quickly. Avoid using thick, non-calendered paper bags or red and purple plastic bags, especially in dry areas.
Ninth, poor light penetration and dense planting can lead to difficulty in fruit coloring. Using low-quality paper bags or delaying bagging can worsen this issue. Plastic bags with high air permeability and no UV protection may cause the fruit to turn purple or yellow, increasing the risk of sugar return and bag rupture. Proper orchard management, including adequate light and nutrient balance, is essential for healthy fruit development.
Lastly, fruits inside bags may wilt during storage due to a thin wax layer on the peel. To prevent this, remove the paper bags about 15–20 days before harvest and sort the fruit promptly. For long-term storage, wrap the fruit in fresh-keeping paper or plastic film. If exporting, remove the original plastic bag and replace it with a fresh-keeping plastic bag.
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